(Written while on a fjord tour in Bergen on May 30th.)
The contrast of experience is absolutely stunning.  No homecooked food, no inside scoop, no special pass, no keys to locked doors, no one to answer all my questions, no one to tell me the Norwegian names for things.  On this fjord tour boat, I feel like I should be sitting inside, visiting with the captain.  Instead, I’m out on the deck with a bunch of strangers, and we’re all getting in each others’ ways – unlike the graceful group awareness I felt with “my team.” We’re snapping photos of the scenery to which we have no relationship or understanding, and very little information.  I haven’t said more than three words to anyone in hours.  We’re all in our little bubbles, and together we share the larger bubble of our tourist boat.  Although the weather’s perfect and the scenery is fine and the ride is lovely, there’s a certain lack of depth to the experience.

I’m glad I took a couple of extra days after the GSE program, so that I could have some time and space to think, and maybe begin to process what has happened over the last month. Group Study Exchange: there is no comparison to any other experience I’ve ever had in my life. The thing I can’t get out of my head, that continues to bring tears to my eyes, is the thankfulness I feel for having met all the dear hosts, guides, and vocational contacts who took care of us during our stay in Norway. We were welcomed into the homes and lives of these wonderful people.  They rearranged their schedules to spend time with us. We saw their communities and favorite places that they hold sacred.  We spent time with their spouses, kids and grandkids, siblings, and extended families. We met their neighbors and friends.  We cuddled with their pets, looked at their bookshelves, learned about their hobbies and interests (and yes, obsessions, too.) We saw the insides of their refrigerators and under their sinks.  We got to know each other well as we cooked together, did laundry, ran errands, went to the grocery store or the auto shop or picked the kids up from school.  We stayed up late, talking, singing, telling stories, dancing, and yes, sometimes alcohol was involved. We shared our experiences of stressful work situations, injuries and illnesses, worries about aging parents, joys of birthdays and celebrations, and grief (some very fresh, and some not so recent but still terribly painful) over friends and family members who’ve been lost.  Memories of these new friends will be vivid and powerful for years and years.  I just hope some of our Norwegian friends will come visit us in Michigan and Ontario, so we can return some of the splendid hospitality and warmth that they showed us.

Tusen takk, dear friends, and all the Rotary Clubs who made this trip possible.

After a long day(s) of travelling, we arrived home safe and sound.  We boarded the bus in Lyngdal at 3:45am sharp and were at the airport by 5:30am.  Thanks to the early Norwegian sunrise, it made travelling a bit easier, but the night was definitely short.  Krista, Anjanette, and I boarded our plane first to Amsterdam and Jodi and Diane followed soon thereafter on their flight to Oslo.  Cindy was flying out around 11:00am for her 3 day trip in Bergen.

All was smooth for the US group (Krista, Tara, and Anjanette) until our connection in Chicago.  Krista and I were supposed to leave for Grand Rapids at 4:30pm but learned at 2:30pm that our flight had been cancelled due to mechanical problems.  We were on stand-by for the 6:30pm flight to Grand Rapids, but so were 28 other people so we weren’t able to get on the flight.  Finally, at 9:45pm we boarded a plane for Muskegon and arrived at 11:45pm.  Unfortunately, our luggage did not arrive and today (Sunday) at 7:00pm Michigan time, it is still yet to be found.    Needless to say, after 27 hours of travel and only 2 hours of sleep the night before, we were more than exhausted and likely not speaking coherently anymore.  Home was a welcomed refuge and bed never felt so good. 

Thankfully, our travels for the month in Norway were much smoother than this run-around.  Thank you Rotary Clubs for making it an amazing trip!  We miss you already!

Post by Tara Kram

Our six member female International G.S.E. team from District 6290 has had a truly exceptional, unforgettable experience in Norway. The Rotarians from District 2290 have been exceptional in extending their generosity to each and every member. Our cultural experiences have been rich—boating in fiords, climbing lighthouses, sampling coveted cloudberries, trekking through mountains, savoring fresh shrimps, devouring brown cheese, sipping aquavit, participating in the National Day celebrations, marveling at the intricate embroidery on bunads, visiting summer homes, attempting reindeer and moose meat, and of course feasting on salmon, cod, herring, mackerel, shrimp, whale and halibut.

Our vocational exposures have confirmed that we encounter similar challenges and successes. Exchanges of methodologies and practices were most appreciated. Our greatest joys came sharing times with our hosts—whether hiking through the forests, investigating an ancient city, or best of all sharing a traditional meal together. These caring Norwegian Rotarians truly opened their hearts and their homes, thereby assuring that each of us would experience the finest of their country. We will always have a spot in our hearts for these marvelous Norwegian families.

As I have mentioned in an earlier text, District 6290 can be extremely proud of its G.S.E. Norway team. Each of these young female professionals was an excellent ambassador for her club, her District, and her country. It has indeed been a sincere pleasure and a great privilege being the team leader of such an excellent, enthusiastic team!

Cindy, Jody, Anjanette, Tara, Diane, Krista

Post by Diane Marshall

Sunset light on granite islands
Strandnellik blooms purple against red rock.

Three beams of light from Torungen Fyr
three pie-pieces of sky

For breakfast:
Bacon, eggs, toast & poetry with Sondre & Knut.

Fed the sheep.
Cuddled with kittens.
Climbed the lighthouse at sunset.

“Earl-eye up in the morning”
Awoken at 4:00 am by Oystercatchers,
At 5:30 am by the sheep with their bells,
At 7:00 am by geese with their goslings.

On Mærdo, eating sea cabbage,
taking a breath, taking some time.

The view from my window is mostly sea and sky, with a fringe of island rock, sheep, and gulls at the bottom of the frame. The half moon is reflecting in the open window glass.

Up at 5:00, relentless sun, streaks of blonde in my hair.

A quick thrust of the right hand, bending back the head to crush the neck bones.  That’s how I SHOULD have done it, but I was pretty wimpy about it.  “I thought you were a tough guy,” said Knut.
I fed the fish guts to the gulls.

Sondre’s poems: I need to learn Norwegian so I can understand them!

The Arendal Song is stuck in my head. Stuck in my head, stuck in my heart.

My first approach to Store Torungen

Sondre and Knut perform the (very catchy) Arendal Song.

Knut feeds the wild sheeps

Post by Cindy Mom

“I must tell you, not all Norwegians are as crazy about this as I am,” said our host and guide (and president of the Lyngdal Rotary Club), Gaute Johannessen. While Krista and Diane were relaxing in Gaute and Tordis’s beautiful mountain cottage two days ago, Gaute guided Anjanette, Jody, Tara, and Cindy on an overnight hike into the mountains.  And yes, Gaute is crazy about the mountains.  They are his paradise. Gaute is also crazy about many other outdoor activities that can be done in the wilds of Norway. His seasons go something like this, though not necessarily in this order:
Ski
Fish, at the ocean
Fish, at the river
Fish, at the lake
Canoe, hike, and stay at mountain huts (hytte)
Go boating on the fjord
Pick cloudberries (in undisclosed locations)
Hunt rype (grouse)
Ice skate
Eat rakfisk and cloudberries
Ski

Gaute’s outdoor interests, passions, and activities can be summed up with one Norwegian word: friluftsliv. Literally translated, this means “free air life.” We don’t have a word for this way of life in English. It seems to be a purely Norwegian philosophy.  The four of us who got to go on a hike with this master of friluftsliv are so fortunate to have had him as our guide.  He didn’t waste too much time talking about friluftsliv, but instead took us to a ruggedly beautiful place, and shared his mountain paradise with us.  Thank you, Gaute, for introducing us to the Lakkenstova Hytte, Lille Øy Vann, kråkefot, rype, heipiplerke, bløtenatter, your homemade raspberry wine, and the barbeque hut.  Maybe someday you’ll tell us where to find the cloudberries. (But we won’t hold our breaths.)

Gaute, our fearless leader

Springtime in Ljosland, while the rhododendrons and cherry trees bloom back in town

Lakkenstova Hytte, a Den Norske Turistforening (DNT) cabin.

Happy Campers!

 Post by Cindy Mom

While the other girls were off having their mountain adventure, I remained behind at “base camp” and enjoyed a bit of luxury. Our cabin has a few more creature comforts than the DNT cottage my brave GSE teammates are staying in tonight.

love the grass roof!

After seeing the 4 hikers off (in the rain) Diane and I settled back in for a little quiet time. In the early afternoon we were taken for a ride and mini-hike in the next valley, where we were able to see some of the impressive hydroelectric dams help supply Norway with power. A little more reading and relaxing followed. Then on to dinner! Neighboring Rotarians invited us over for an authentic Korean feast. Full and happy we made the long hike back – two whole houses over.

Still more reading and relaxing followed, with a little music peppered in for good measure. Then I heard it calling my name… the sauna… it was time.

Within minutes, any remaining stress I possessed had melted away. The twinge in my shoulder from my long day hauling statues at the Vestfold Folk Museum was finally gone. Best of all, I was reminded of all the saunas back home in the Upper Peninsula where I grew up.

steamy little bit of heaven

I’m sure the other team members will come back tomorrow with wonderful tales of their adventures up on the mountain – but I won’t regret my time spent here at “base camp.”

Post by Krista Menacher

We are leaving Arendal this afternoon to head for Lyngdal.  We had wonderful weather for the past few days (70+ degrees!) so we have been able to enjoy the outdoors and even managed to get a little sunburned.  Our Arendal hosts gave us a great send off party last night out at Store Torungen Nature Preserve (island where there is a lighthouse).  We had an all you can eat shrimp buffet in the boat house – yum!  All agree that Arendal has felt like a vacation with the warm weather, beautiful views of the water, and relaxed pace.  Thank you Nedenes (Arendal) Rotary Club!!

We head for a cabin at Ljosland today and then to another cabin called Lakkenstova.  We will connect with our hosts in Lyngdal on Tuesdsay.  We may not have internet access until then, so we will fill you in our adventures in a few days!

Boat show in Arendal

Shrimp feast

View from the top of the lighthouse

You might be a Norwegian tourist if:

1. The word “fantastic” is now used at least 3 times a day in your vocabulary
2. You wake up in the night looking for the top sheet only to discover there isn’t one
3. You think they keep forgetting the top piece of bread when they give you a sandwich
4. You go boating for fun when it is 35 degrees
5. You pay $4 for a 16oz. Coke
6. You laugh when Norwegians talk about semen (or is that Sea Men?)
7. You dream about whole grain bread
8. You are startled when someone inhales and says “ja”
9. You think Kvikk Lunsj is a souvenir
10. You wear jeans to the parade on May 17
11. You’ve been on a Harry Tur
12. You wake up at 4:00am because the sun is shining in your bedroom

Post by Tara Kram

We left Porsgrunn on Tuesday afternoon after a relaxing morning shopping and drinking coffee in town.  Two of our Arendal hosts picked us up and managed to squeeze all of our large suitcases into their cars.  After meeting our hosts and getting settled in our new homes for the next six days, we attended their Rotary Club meeting in the evening.  I am staying in a beautiful home overlooking the fjord which is owned by Åsta, the pastor at the Arendal Lutheran Church.  

View from Asta's house in Arendal

 Wednesday we toured the town of Arendal and learned about its history.  We then travelled to a nearby island to see the countryside and different views of the fjord.  We managed to come across a burning home and were glad to learn it was a training exercise for the fire department. 

Downtown Arendal

Cindy, Anjanette, Tara, and Krista - view of the ocean

We also visited a small farm where we had soup with ingredients fresh from the farm.  From there we went to a cow farm which is all automated so there is very little manual labor – quite impressive actually! 

Cows lined up waiting for food - that's us in the plastic gowns and shoes

At the end of the afternoon, we went to Asta’s family’s farm for a bbq.  Her brother was the chef and he is the former Mayor of Arendal. 

Asta's brother cooking the hot dogs and hamburgers

In the evening, Cindy and I went kayaking with the Arendal Kayaking club.  We kayaked for about 3 hours with a stop in the middle at a small island where there are only summer homes.  I was exhausted when we returned, but we had a great time.  The night was warm and the sun was beautiful – a perfect day! 

Tara 7 months pregnant and trying to arrange myself in the kayak

Cindy in her glory

Post by Tara Kram

Tour of Telemark Today we had the wonderful opportunity to drive north into the heart of Telemark. It was a rainy, foggy day but our hosts decided to go through with the tour anyway and we are very thankful that they did.

We drove through Porsgruun accompanied by Nils, Kjell, Jan Henrick, Ellen and our driver Jan. The first sight they pointed out was the porcelain factory which has ceased to produce porcelain because of the cost of the employee’s wages here in Norway. It was cheaper to move production out of the country but people feel that there will no longer be the quality of what they made here.

Next, we saw some locks connecting inland waterways that were built in 1892. There are 18 locks in the 105 km long system with a height difference of 72 meters.

Our hosts pointed out a church built in 1180 and told us a fairy tale about 3 girls who were too noisy during a sermon and so were banished by the priest. The girls turned to stone and there are 3 stones in the area which represent them. There is another story about a troll who put the cross on the peak of the church but then fell to his death. Where he is supposed to have fallen, no grass grows there.

We stopped in Morgdal at the Olav Bjaaland Museum. We watched a movie and went through the exhibit and learned about the history of skiing in Norway. We also watched an excellent video of two skiers going down a mountain. It was a truly beautiful thing to see. The skiers were so skilled it was like watching ballet.

Olav Bjaaland, for whom the museum was named, was born in 1873 and came from Morgedal. He won the Royal Cup in Holmenkollen in 1902. He also participated in the Polar expedition with Roald Amundsen as a supervisor of the expedition’s skis and sledges. He was appointed leader of the group during the last stretch to the geographical South Pole. After that, he founded his own ski factory.

From Morgendal we headed further up into the mountains. The higher we went, the more snow there was and the smaller the trees. In Vierle we stopped to take pictures of the still-frozen lake and we ended up going up to about 1260 meters at the highest point. We went through many switchbacks to get there! We met a couple out snowshoeing just before we hit the tree line. The snow banks were really, really big!

I’m sure the view from up there is normally fantastic but we didn’t see too much today because of the weather. We stopped for lunch at a beautiful restaurant up in the mountains.

Our next stop was to the old Vemork hydroelectric power station and the Norwegian Industrial Worker Museum. This is something that is very hard to describe with words as it was so impressive! To get there, we had to drive down the side of an enormous mountain and cross a gorge so deep that they bungee jump off the suspension bridge that crosses it. There are huge waterfalls down the mountain that are absolutely breathtaking! I have never seen anything like them. There isn’t just one either. There are waterfalls everywhere, cascading down the steep cliffs.

The powerhouse is impressive, to say the least. I have no idea how they could have gotten the supplies in to build the facility or the large turbines. It would have been quite a challenge. The facility is no longer in use but is open to go through. We watched a movie about heavy water and I learned something new about the events of the war.

Heavy water was first discovered in 1933 by the Americans. It looks and tastes like ordinary water but its boiling point is 1.4 degrees above ordinary water and it freezes at 4 degrees. They hydrogen element is different though and is of a special kind which is twice the weight of ordinary hydrogen. This makes heavy water have a 10% increase in weight over ordinary water. It is used like “brake fluid” in atomic fission and therefore needed to make atomic bombs.

All heavy water at the time was produced at Rjukan in German-occupied Norway. The Norwegians did not want the Germans to create an atomic bomb so they decided to sabotage the plant. With great difficulty and loss and a strenuous battle with the elements, the team destroyed the vital cell of heavy water. I had no idea that this event took place and I was very glad to learn about this piece of history.

After leaving the power plant, we proceeded to the Tuddal Heyfjellshotel, one of the oldest high-mountain hotels in Norway. It was certainly something to see. Inside, the hotel is beautifully decorated. I would love to be able to spend a night in such a place! Hanging from the ceiling is a boat estimated to be about 600 years old, that they found in the lake in front of the hotel.

Our last stop of the day was to the Heddal Stave Church, the largest one of its kind standing in Norway. We had only a few minutes to stop as our bus driver was running out of time he could log, but we were able to get a couple of pictures.

I am so thankful for this tour today! We visited some very special places. The landscape was completely different from what we had seen so far. A very big thank you to our thoughtful hosts!

Jody and Cindy

Post by Jody Houle